My trip to Spain wasn’t for tourism; I went to present the Peace Education program that I developed with my team from the Fora da Caixa cultural collective, in partnership with the Educandário and Instituto André Luiz. For a week I was in retreat with 60 other educators working with the community of the International Institute on Peace Education at the University of Granada, in Andalusia. This account is not about that meeting; I wrote another article recounting that experience. Anyone interested can access it via this link.
Here I will describe my wanderings through the city of Málaga and the small city of San Lorenzo de El Escorial, which is near Madrid, where I visited a brazilian friend Andrea Pascale, whom I’ve known since my adolescence. I usually write about my pilgrimages and the sacred places I visit, but this time the account is about a cultural experience.
First of all, I like to travel alone, without big plans or defined places that are famous in commercial itineraries; I’m averse to crowds. I like to feel the freedom of discovering places based on interests such as art, gastronomy, gardens, and unexpected encounters. For many, the fact of being unaccompanied is already an obstacle. I won’t say that things would be resolved in a less complicated way when we have someone by our side. But in my case, I think that practicing problem-solving and spontaneously seeking solutions is a test of courage and self-confidence. Problems happen, from having to run a lot (which in my case is quite complicated) to avoid missing a connecting flight, to discovering that the boarding gate number is incorrect and the correct gate is on the other side of the airport—things that require emotional control and communication skills, often in languages I don’t master.
Feeling like a citizen of the world is very precious to me; finding myself among people and cultures that are both strange and enchanting is a priceless satisfaction. I’ve long been a graduate in “Sevirology” (the art of figuring out), and this gives me the assurance that even in the most complicated situations, we are dealing with human beings, and the essence of humanity is always good. With rare exceptions, people do their best to help, clarify, and seek solutions to my requests. Complete strangers have rescued me from challenging circumstances, confirming my belief in kindness countless times.
Leaving Granada by bus towards Málaga, on the Spanish coast, was a journey of just over an hour. The combination of summer and the mid-year holidays left the city full of tourists, people who are there to enjoy the best of the season, with tanned bodies, strolling through the streets, shops and restaurants, groups of friends and entire families. Holidays are taken very seriously by Europeans in general; there’s no such thing as working too much or missing out on this important period of rest and/or fun. Summer invites people to be outdoors.
My accommodation was in a capsule hostel; it was a bit strange at first, but in the end I liked it, despite the cramped conditions. The Brazilian economy rarely allows us to enjoy moments like these; trips with family or friends don’t last weeks, a weekend or a week in one of the many wonderful places in my country costs a fortune, and this privilege is accessible to few. Not to mention that airfare prices, even within the country, are often more expensive than international flights. That’s why I try to make the most of every opportunity I have to visit other countries. Even with a small budget, I try to appreciate the opportunity to be there as much as possible.
As soon as I arrived at the bus station, I took a taxi to Malaga Cathedral, an important landmark. I still had some time before I could check into the hostel; I needed to escape the heat, connect to some Wi-Fi, and eat something nice. It’s quite easy to find restaurants in the center; I avoided the main streets because they were more expensive and full of tourists; I sat down to eat in peace and air conditioning.
After leaving my bags at the hostel, I went for a walk and explored the neighborhood.
One of my goals in the city of Málaga was to visit the Picasso Museum, but when I left my hostel to go there I discovered other places that charmed me and I went on my first completely aimless wandering trip…
I’m the kind of person who likes to observe details; buildings, movement, flowers, doors, and windows enchant me. Perhaps that’s why walking alone is a bonus; I can stop at any moment, my pace is naturally slow, so I take full advantage of that. No rush, step by step…
The colors are vibrant in shop windows and alleyways. Traditional flamenco clothing and related items are everywhere.
While chatting with a saleswoman in a souvenir shop, showing off my fluent “Portunhol” or “Spanglish,” I ended up discovering that I was on the corner of the Carmen Thyssen Museum, which was also on my list, and to make it even more appealing, admission was free on Sundays. Perfect combination!
The museum has a beautiful collection; I photographed the works that caught my attention the most, mainly because of the interplay of light and shadow in the paintings, without focusing on the artists or the period in which they were painted, simply drawn to their enchantment.
After the visit I continued wandering through the beautiful streets of Málaga, discovering squares, markets with local crafts, lots of food and ice cream parlors for all tastes. I walked everywhere until I was tired and then returned to my hostel.
I couldn’t go back without trying some gelato and eating something delicious, right? When I travel, I seek to experience local things, flavors, textures, and aromas that are found in countless places in Malaga and that will be part of my memories and cells when I return to Brazil.
Look how beautiful the local handicrafts are!
The next day I decided to check out the beach. I did some research and saw that the most popular one, and the closest to where I was staying, was Malagueta. I packed my sarong and a change of clothes, since I was going to be out all day and staying in a bikini with sand wasn’t an option.
A beach with gentle waves, very popular with families and tourists seeking fun and sun, lots of sun. It’s very common for people to go topless and be super comfortable on the sand. This relaxed atmosphere made this moment a delight, and I spent a beautiful morning relaxing, enjoying the view, listening to music, and resting. The day was just beginning, so this stop was great for recharging my batteries. I confess I didn’t go into the sea; since my bag contained my passport, cards, and travel documents that I didn’t want to leave at the hostel, I didn’t feel safe leaving them on the sand and going into the sea. Yes, robberies happen on beaches; a friend was robbed in Switzerland after leaving his things on the sand and going for a swim in the lake in Neuchâtel, so I thought it best not to risk it…
I took the opportunity to take a shower on the way out, and that already made me happy because I had no problems walking all day without the friction of sand and salt water.
I left the beach already hungry, sat down for lunch, and enjoyed the breeze on the shore a little longer. It was my last day in the city, and every moment had to be savored to the fullest.
With a change of clothes, refreshed and a full stomach, I went out to explore the surroundings. My goal was to walk to the Picasso Museum, but as I headed towards the port area I came across the Centre Pompidou, a place that houses an incredible collection, and I was delighted to visit it.
The impact that some works of art have on our soul is something inexplicable. Perhaps because I hadn’t anticipated the visit to this place and knew nothing about the works that were there, I felt a profound joy upon encountering a Jackson Pollock right at the entrance.
Between paintings and installations, I visited the collection, feeling renewed by the artists’ energy and also relieved from the intense heat. Air conditioning at times like these can be a lifesaver!
The shop at the place with its fascinating artifacts and books is always a temptation! I can walk past many shops having sales and not feel the urge to go in, not even to look. My consumerist spirit abandoned me a long time ago! But books, oh books…they call to me and grab me. I couldn’t leave without one that caught my eye the most…
I continued my journey, pausing a few times along the way to appreciate the squares, parks, and lush nature of Málaga, which invite contemplation.
Judging by the number of people walking around with their luggage, we can already tell that we’re approaching the most touristy area and where the best hotels are located.
Walking through the streets, I took the opportunity to make a pit stop and enjoy some gelato and coffee at one of the best cafes in the area. The feeling of satisfaction was indescribable. Anyone who loves coffee and ice cream will understand me…
So, how do you explain Picasso? A human being so authentic, full of inspiration from the world, from people, fragments and distortions that reveal the perfection of imperfection. Someone might copy Picasso’s style, but his spontaneity and originality, never!
I already felt fulfilled and happy to visit the Picasso collection, but there was another exhibition happening there as well. When I saw the works, I remembered artist friends who work with threads, yarns, embroidery, and installations, I think they would have loved it!
I love the freedom of local commerce; besides being creative, they are very clear about the products available. This would be absurd in Brazil, which insists on keeping drug trafficking active and strong instead of legalizing the medicinal use of cannabis and regulating recreational sales through taxes. We are still very behind the advancements in other countries and hypocritical as well.
The next morning I took the train to Madrid, a journey of almost 3 hours. A hearty breakfast and off I went for the last leg of my stay in Spain.
I met my long-time friend in Madrid. Andrea Pascale welcomed me with a delicious breakfast.
After a short walk around the area, we headed towards San Lorenzo de El Escorial, where she lives. The town is 50 kilometers from Madrid.in the Guadarrama mountainsIt is world-famous for its imposing Royal Monastery, built in the 16th century by King Philip II and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.
The place is truly enchanting, a peaceful location full of history, beautiful monuments, and gardens.
We arrived hungry, because traveling is always a gastronomic adventure above all else!
Complete with a beautiful moonlit night!
We walked around the city with the dogs Benito and Santiago, two sweethearts who were my guardians and inseparable companions during my brief stay.
The place is truly special; there’s an aura of spirituality and beauty, and a rhythm that invites contemplation and appreciation of simple things.
And so, with my suitcase full of typical Spanish delicacies, I left the country that stole my heart and will make me remember with joy the days I lived my wandering mode.
I am very grateful for the warm welcome and for all the precious moments I experienced in Granada, Málaga, and San Lorenzo de Escorial. The photos, memories, and flavors are there to immortalize those moments and bring a new joy in seeing and revisiting the people and places I had the opportunity to meet. I will certainly return soon, if possible!
Gracias por todo!
Regina Proença, philosopher, peace educator, and wandering traveler.